Grower: Haille Gebre
Lot: ‘Maduro’
Origin: Guji, Sidamo, Ethiopia (Organic)
Processing: Dry Process Varietal: Heirloom varietals
Description
I was listening to Spanish Guitarist Federico Aubele a few nights ago, and it struck me then that this was the tension that I feel in this coffee. There is unboasting beauty, subtle and mellow, but there’s also a sense of urgency that weaves through it… From the dry ground coffee, there’s clear, fresh cacao powder aromatics leaping forward. You’d think it should keep on and build on that intensity, but begin steeping, and the aroma turns more mellow, more like buttered toast. Sip, and the rich spices like clove, ceylon cinnamon, and a bit of mace makes is seem Mediterranean. Then pops the ripe huckleberries and fruit – a sweet cantaloupe-like richness, with plum and fully ripe stone fruit. Butterscotch, agave syrup follow close on the tails of everything else.For so much fruit, the acidity is well integrated by easily distinct flavors that finish proud and strong.
Additional Notes
Located in a remote area of the Sidamo district called Shakisso, on the Guji zone, largely known for large gold mines – an area of open conflict between growers and miners [what is the nature of this, history?]. For this lot, Haille Gebre has overseen the harvesting of only crimson-purple cherries, deeper than the typically red ripe indications – likely the impetus for the moniker ‘Maduro’ or Mature.
The daily rhythm of grinding for the press in anticipation of thick, rich, and even chewy, coffee has given way – perhaps because of possibly because of these endlessly recurring spring rains – to a strong desire for the cleanliness and clarity of a finer grind and a glass filter. This is a place where the discernment of favors and the aromatic nuances drift more like maple tree propellers falling through cloudless, bright sun than forcing themselves up through fine loam.
Certainly, there are beauties in both methods, of course. The press pot is wonderful for those mornings where the winter rain or snow is hanging heavily over the edge of the roof just as the late morning sun is warming it into an even heavier slop… in those moments, I need a coffee that can withstand the slushy plop as it slips over the gutter onto the front stoop. But when the desire for spring and summer rolls around, the feeling I want in the morning is fresh liveliness… and it’s the vac pot that can deliver.
Here is an acknowledgment that coffee, very much like all other agricultural (seasonal) products, are the result of keen human endeavors. That the distance between consumers and producers has obscured any clear appreciation of the stories it takes to bring anything of quality to the world.
It’s a call to slow your pace and appreciate where your morning ritual has come from, who it has come from, and take into account it’s place in the world.
You can find out more at the links below.
Slow Coffee
The Institute of Slowness
Kudos to 1000 Faces Coffee. It’s awesome to see this sort of involvement in coffee culture.
For the past couple weeks, I’ve been putting down my log charts and allowing myself to roast mostly by feel. It’s not that I’m abandoning the numbers I use to profile roasts—in fact I was still paying attention to times and temperatures, I just wasn’t recording them as I usually do—it’s that I want to more deeply ingrain my feel for the roast. And to do that, I had to step away from the raw data and use what I know, what I sense, to guide the profile. SoI have been paying close attention to times, and I will return to keeping detailed logs. But for now, the distance I am imposing on myself has been refreshing and enlightening, much like backpacking in the deep woods. Just nature. Just coffee. And clear focus.
I’ll post more once I’ve collected my thoughts.
It’s been a super full week – taxes and other things – so it’s been difficult to make up some shortfall from Sunday’s roasting. So this morning pulled out a bit of the Aged Sumatra that I roasted a week and a half ago… this coffee has legs. Although it doesn’t have the freshness that it did a week ago, it hasn’t lost it’s depth either. Very very nice.
Roasting early today. Checking aroma at first crack, I am almost chewing on the complexity.
Aged. First cupping of a three year old coffee and I’m so happy with it. After a week of cupping good and decent coffees, with only one or two standouts, this one is a clear choice for me.
Intense, thick, pepper and spice – cardomon, brown sugar, burnt caramel, and a deep woody-earthy dry-chocolate base.
The roast could be brought a slight bit more – just touching second crack – to bring the caramelization out more, but other than that I am happy with the balance.
Be sure to give it 3 days rest.
Oh, and it lingers.
Just did a first cupping of a new Peru coffee – El Guabo… Very impressed. It was what I call a casual cupping, which means I don’t score it and just note my experience with it. It’s something I do with most all the coffees to get to how it strikes me emotionally than, say, the degree of complexity or whatnot.
Anyway, it was quite elegant – hazlenut base, smooth medium-full body with hints of vanilla and apricot (especially in the dry aroma). Great balance. I kept thinking to myself that I could simply drink this all day long and neither get bored of it nor feel that I had to pay attention to it.
There’s been a great deal of not unwarranted moaning within the specialty coffee industry about Ethiopia’s new Exchange system, and how it hadn’t been set up with allowances for direct trade with farms and how that would essentially make it impossible to get the same high quality coffees that we have been getting used to over the past few years…
This morning, I came across an article that states the ECX has responded to these concerns (contrary to some reporting, they never ignored them, they just didn’t deal with the issue…). Anyway, it seems that it’s being corrected for next year… Eleni Gabre-Madhin, chief executive officer of the ECX, said in an interview that the exchange will begin offering a direct buying service to encourage exactly the type of buying we have grown to love.
Awesome. Cause I would sorely miss some years without any wet-processed Koratie.
Well, it’s simply that the rustic sweetness of this sample just stuck with me. Honestly, I wasn’t going to purchase this since I was already ordering another of their coffees. Not that I thought it wasn’t a great coffee, but I was clearly referencing the deep complex fruit of their Espresso Reserve. But after a few weeks, I was still thinking about this one. The rustic sweetness of Muskovado Sugar draping over light cocoa and chocolate just kept coming back into my mind. So here we are, and there you go. A smooth, classic Brazil coffee with tons of old world sweetness and chocolate from one of the most innovative, quality-driven estates in Brazil.