Archive for March, 2009

Bonko Farm “Black Sun” from Dara Woreda, Sidamo, Ethiopia.

Published
by
Dave
on 10 March, 2009
in Deft Offerings, coffee, cupping notes and general coffee
. 0 Comments

Rich like the marbling of Kobe beef. Medium-heavy body. Stone fruits – like apricot and the light starch of a real good, I mean amazingly smooth and even textured, pear – weave complex, layered dolphin patterns through a bed of bittersweet cocao and chocolate.

(this coffee is currently sold out)

Kebado Wet-processed from Kebado, Sidamo, Ethiopia

Published
by
Dave
on 10 March, 2009
in Deft Offerings, coffee, cupping notes and general coffee
. 1 Comment

Similar to the Koratie Dry-Processes that sold out so quickly, but with more crispness. Lighter fruits are at play – starfruit, citrusy notes. But it’s sweet and aromatic, floral. Complex and delicate. Light in body. This is like the sun the last couple days, crisp, bright, but with a stark clarity to the air that is mesmerizing. Truly, this coffee is an amazing display of skill set to work amid the right environmental conditions. This is a very light roast, gingerly stretched at the right points to bring forward the floral and clear crisp complexity of its fruit flavors.
(this is currently sold out)

Three Variations on a Roast: Finca Kilimanjaro, El Salvador.

Published
by
Dave
on 9 March, 2009
in coffee
. 1 Comment

3 Finca Kilimanjaros
As I am getting more familiar with my set-up, I’m now working on developing a more rigorous testing process with several intentions… The most important of which is to be able to sketch with more clarity the potential of a coffee. Cupping is like gesture drawing for me, brief movements meant not to render in high detail, but capture a core and essential trait. Secondarily, though, I want to validate, or make corrections to, my own understanding of the roasting process. These two skills set the foundation for everything else I do in relation to coffee… So, I began.

I use a sort of shorthand for these, so I’ve provided a legend/glossary here that explains how I define each phase of the roast.

For this exercise, I was interested specifically in the Maillard Phase of the roast and the effect of the length of this phase relative to the Warming-Phase (and Caramelization phase, too, though that is minimized as these roasts were dumped quite close to the end of 1rst Crack.). Also, I’m interested in establishing general acceptable boundaries for these limits, i.e. how long is too long, where is ideal and what is too short. Obviously, this is just the beginning, and really only applies to similar coffees, but everything needs to start from somewhere, right?

The set up:

Using a coffee that I know fairly well – one that I know to be excellent – I constructed three variants on one roast profile. W-Phases and C-Phases remained equal in length, heat application and airflow, allowing only the length of the M-Phase to change via heat application. Airflow was kept as consistent as possible, even during the M-Phase. Cup blind for flavor characteristics and relative overall quality.

General Info:
Country of Origin: El Salvador
Farm/Grower: Finca Kilimanjaro / Aida Batlle
Defects: 0 defects / 300g
Processing: Wet Processed
Altitude: 1450m
Grade: SHB
Varietal: 95% Bourbon & Kenyan, 5% Pacas.
Region: Potrero Grande Arriba, Santa Ana Volcano, Apaneca-Ilamatepec Mnts.
Crop: Nov 2007 (vacuum packed)

El Salvadore Finca Kilimanjaro – Roast Variation Comparison
Roast #1 Roast #2 Roast #3
W - 0:00 – 4:55
M - 4:55 – 8:40
1Cb - 8:40
1Cr - 9:09
1Cf - 10:10
C - 10:10 – 10:32
F -10:32		 W - 0:00 – 5:02
M - 5:02 – 9:09
1Cb -9:09
1Cr - 9:21
1Cf - 10:01
C - 10:21 – 10:34
F - 10:41		 W - 0:00 – 5:00
M - 5:00 – 9:19
1Cb - 9:19
1Cr - 9:39
1Cf - 10:01
C - 10:01 – 11:08
F - 11:08
Cupping Notes Cupping Notes Cupping Notes

Compressed, but clear, bright acidity – verging on green, but still quite sweet. Light body. smooth where it might seem like it would be a bit gritty from the light roast. Body flavors are not nearly as developed as other cups. seems comparatively simple (though not absolutely simple).
Shortening M brings the fruit flavors too tight for development of fruit flavors.

Nice balance – <scan drawing> where the size of the body is subdued, supports the clean fruit, but does not overwhelm with it’s richness or presence. Dry aroma is rich chocolate floats around somewhere about 62% dark. Limited florals.
Sweetness shows up as it cools, slight citric tang, hovers occasionally as the cup cools and shifts.
Overall was more complex and balanced. In relation to the other two roasts, it showed more development of fruit flavor, while maintaining clarity and structure. Body was balanced and while present, it was well balanced in that it supported the fruit.

Rich & relatively full.
Developed body – evenly or maybe slightly shy of equal balance between base/body & developed fruit.
Raw sugar sweetness – more than with any other cup here.
In relation to the other roasts, fruit flavors are more rounded, smoothed out, blended. While body was rich, heavier than other roasts, though it began to weight out of balance with the fruit. Fruits are slightly diminished, but mostly over shadowed.
Roast Notes Roast Notes Roast Notes

Unsteady ramp 0:00-4:55.
More than normal gas fluxuating to get steady ramp.

Drum exterior temp: ~110°C – ~ +25°C from roast #1.

Early flux in gas – stabilized by 0:30.
Drum exterior temp: 125°C

Overall, I am most happy with the development and balance of roast #2. It was clearly better than the others in complexity, clarity and development. M-phase works its magic on the development of both body and fruit flavors. Further to test is where M begins, as water content does both help and inhibit M development… the next question is how much is the right amount to help keep heat distribution even throughout the bean, but not inhibit full development of fruit flavors.