Archive for April, 2007

THING FALLS INTO PARTS, THE FRENCH COUNTRY SIDE & COME-ON!

Tomeo Sushi, Denal and Planet B-Boy at the Tribeca Film Festival
Got hold of a day pass for the Tribeca Film Festival so had to use it. By the time that I dropped off everything at my hotel and figure how to fit dinner in there as well, i made it to only one movie. If I had been more on the ball, and not as tired, then maybe I would have been able to make it to the other movie I was considering (Tides and Winds).. but it was too far to get there and get to Planet B-Boy, and still be able to get sushi which is a priority whenever I hear that there is good sushi right around the corner. So let’s start there. Megan suggested to goto Tomeo Sushi. just up the street from where I was staying and on the way to the AMC Village VII where the movie was playing. Perfectly convenient. t was, as Megan described, not fancy, but the best Sushi in NYC. Not fancy was right. you wait in an alcove of blue and clear plastic to protect you from the rain for a table to open up. Simple and small but solid wood tables. Tightly packed together and not very many.

First a word about the rice and seaweed. This place opened up my eyes to what they should be in sushi! A study in tensioned states: soft, supple and able to fall easily into parts, each part always remaining true to its essence… you could say the entire experience was the same thing.. unassuming decor (typical sushi posters slapped on the wall flanking box fronts from featured sakes, but the attention to service was impeccable and friendly.

So I have to say the rice was amazing. Christy and I bought this book on making sushi that described the training of a sushi chef.. 3 years before you even are allowed to make rice! and five more to learn how you are going to master it. It was like perfectly cooked fresh pasta – ”it had this slight, fresh sweetness (rice wine vinegar? the right amount of salt?) It just didn’t intrude on the seafood inside it. The seaweed wrapping seemed to be grown to go specifically with the rice. It was ready when I chomped into it, yielding the contents without resistance, but again, as a study in tensioned forces, it didn’t just give and dissolve. It just gave way into parts. So I started with two rolls: Spicy Scallops with sprouts, and Unagi with sliced cucumber, & two sashimi: Hamachi (belly cut) and Toyo. I totally forgot to order miso. Ahhwellanyway, both the sashimi were excellent, though I think that the Hamachi was a little less firm than it should be. Distinctly sweet yellowtail flavor, and somewhat mild, but super oily! I was able to pull the layers apart with my chopsticks and it oozed oil-fat over my lips as I too the first bit. Caught me of guard. Tho Toyo was amazing though. firm and delicate. it melted in my mouth. All I had to do was press the flesh against the roof of my mouth and it would fall apart without turning to mush even in the slightest. I began feeling refreshed just from that single piece of tuna. whew! The Scallops, i think were the next best. Spiced well, without over powering the flavor of the scallop, which were firm and fresh. The mayo was maybe a little thick on the end piece, but the other cuts were more balanced… The eel had kept it’s firmness and it wasn’t drenched in sauce like lesser places will do to disguise the low quality of the cut of eel. This had texture that I can only describe as stranded firm texture. The carmel sweet sauce setting the eel up on the top of the palette as it should. I should have stopped there, but I was still hungry so I ordered a salmon skin roll with cucumber. I thought it would be a nice combination of fresh cucumber and
the sharp flavors of fried salmon skin.. nope. it was dull. The salmon skin was over cooked, strange since it was a nice thick cut, keeping a little of the fatty meat with it, but I couldn’t taste anything in it. And since the charred skin was so dominant, the subtle flavors of the cucumber and rice were not apparent. It lost the tension of the other rolls.

But so would I go back? of course. By the time I slid out through the plastic curtains onto the street, There was a line of about 15-20 people waiting to find a place to sit. And it was full the whole time I was there. Anyway, I headed off to get close to the theater. It was only about 9pm, and the show wasn’t till 11:30, but I wanted to get a drink somewhere close-by, so I could simply relax, maybe read, maybe write, maybe talk with someone at a bar… So I got there waayyyy early. I think they were laughing at me I was so early. But at least I found out how early they thought I should be there to make sure I could get in (the pass got me in but didn’t guarantee it). I asked if there was a bar close that they recommended. They pointed to the corporate meat market sports bar across the street, saying that my first drink would be free. Ohh. I crossed the street and just kept waking – ”huge plasma screen in every corner of the bar, loud with obnoxious businessmen trying to impress either a client or some chica with how many VIP passes they has access to for the Festival while ordering peach stoli ‘martini’s. No thanks. But one street down, I heard a clean sounding bustle of a restaurant and could see dim light spilling from a basement restaurant. Danal.

Somehow, I walked right into a cross between a Southern French Country Farmhouse and it’s city market. Boxes and baskets of bread, sweet onions, potatoes and racks of wine lined the walkways and filled eery corner. Every use of space was efficient and clearly about the ingredients of the food. The air was mixed with the sweetness of white oak when burning in the fireplace. A soft natural weight seemed to wrap all the furniture – ”50 year old Assam Oranjuli Tea boxes sat on top of brass and glass coffee dispensers that were almost as old – ”everything worn though use. Each piece had a history and sounds didn’t echo at all – ”with each crisp, clear clink of glass, silver, heel on hardwood gave you one chance to hear it before passing on to another, different but no less clear sound. Voices were soft and easy. No need to strain to talk or hear your companion.  This was Denal.

I just kept thinking how Christy should be here with me, that smile she gets when happiness swells through her would just light up. A sparklie twinkle in her sweet almond blue eyes that is merriment. Just warms my heart. But instead I’m surrounded by aging filmmakers and art travelers, but thankfully absent of artistes and wanna be hipsters. This place has sophistication. Because of the hand embroidered flower blankets, and pillows with wharf scenes printed on the front side. Hand-painted, hen-shaped crockery. And ancient children’s toys in beat wood displays on the wall.

I had just enough time for two glasses of a Buzet that was very nice. Pretty full bodied and the flavors were not exceptionally distinct but when I stopped to pay attention to it, it became slightly spicy but mostly clean cherry juice. A very nice wine to sit at a small round French bistro table and watch people’s legs as they went out to smoke or walked by. And then it was time for the show…

Planet B-Boy.
So Wild Style is required watching. So, I would say, is The History of the Beatbox. There:you have graf, beatboxing, and with Scratch covering DJ’ing you are almost there… Plus a ton of documentaries about the emcees – ”they get all the hype (don’t believe it) but this is the first film I’ve heard of that covers, in-depth, breaking. (Yes, there’s Rize but technically that isn’t breaking though I would say it sort of is… anyway, that is a new new form and doesn’t touch on its roots too much). So Benson Lee follows several teams as they train and prepare for Battle of the Year: finals in Germany. All I can say is wow. the stories are heartbreaking, or inspiring. or just watch Kiuki break. I was kinda wandering to myself while watching this – slipping back more and more into that kid pushing against the grain, going for broke. The stories in this documentary are inspiring. They are heartbreaking. They are real and they are global.

And I just don’t get it sometimes. I though that there would be a good rep of hip hop at the screening. That there would be camaraderie, that there would be people in the audience that would be nodding yesss. That’s right. In the very least, I though that there would be people that would be moved by what I was witnessing. But there, in the middle of some great beats I began to look around and I realized that I was the only one moving to the rhythm. All these film-type goers. All these NYU/NewSchool grad students were sitting there going “hmmmm this is very culturally significant… and I think that I will decide to like this – ” so dis-affected. Dis-ingenuous. Can’t imagine what a show the premier party was going to be next door…

COFFEE PEOPLE

Desperate. Got home super late last night cause Brian, Steve and I were getting old parts for the Soapbox Derby Car <derby link>. Brian and I were going over the roaster. And I had to be at the airport super early. We were out of coffee at home. I tried to drink a cup of tea—it was very tasty, but it just doesn’t work on my nervous system like coffee does, so once I got through the gate (and they threw out my toothpaste cause it was more than 3oz.. oops) I went to the first coffee stand I could find. Coffee People. Burnt. Bitter with this very off, unnatural acrid feeling (more than a flavor), it hurt my mouth for hours after that. No more flavor than smoldering rubber and ash. Even needing coffee’s particular jolt to my nervous system, I could really only drink about 1/2 my 12 oz cup before throwing it out. Whew.

TUBING vs. PIPING

I’m obviously not a metallurgist, nor am I someone who deals with metal piping and tubing on a regular basis… cause I didn’t know the difference till this morning… But now I do. Tubing works off a particular outside diameter.. Pipe presumably works off an interior diameter, though weirdly, it doesn’t necessarily match with the actual ID… hmmmm

Anyway, I got pricing for Stainless and Aluminum, sort of. They didn’t have any of the diameters that I was asking about, which moved me to a slightly different Stainless (316 to 304), so I expect these numbers to shift around.. but I have ballpark numbers so I can begin budgeting. The bummer thing though is that what they said they have available (that I have pricing for) would give me roughly a 6″ dia drum, though I am wanting about 8″.. I will need to shop around some, cause at least I now know it is out there. And too, I did get the name and number of a guy who collects remnants, which should work great cause I don’t really need to buy 16′ of Stainless tubing.

PROTOTYPING for less

I think that Brian and I have figured out how to build the prototype that will tell me whether or not the idea of clad SS will be a good roasting environment… and for a relatively low amount, be able to test whether I should be buying 1/2, 1/4, or 3/4″ thick outer material. I’m pretty confident that the Stainless should be as thin as I can get it so that it acts as only as a surface, and plays into the thermal properties of the drum wall as little as possible.

There’s no question that having the drum constructed by a good machine shop is the more better of options, but for prototyping this entire idea, I can’t justify the cost without knowing if it is going to work.

Anyway, I have to hand it to Brian, he knows how to build things, and I believe that he is right—that the variation between the way a machinist would create this drum and the way we will, will be minimal and enough that we will be able to know whether it is worth it or not. If it is, and I know how thick the outer wall needs to be, then I’ll think about having it machined.

WOW, machinists!

Talked with a machinist today, and have yet to send drawings of what I want, but to manufacture the drum, he was thinking that I am in the thousands of dollars… might be why there are no drums built the way I am envisioning… Not quite back to square one, and I’m not going to completely rule out having this done, but I think that there are cheaper ways to prototype this before spending “thousands”…

STAINLESS STEEL (pros/cons)

Been doing quite a bit of research and evaluation around the application of stainless steel as the contact surface.

The Pros
It doesn’t react with food. so the oils from the coffee can be wiped off the surface, leaving you with a drum that will not impart any flavor to the batch. It would be somewhat insulating to the roast environment… which would, in theory, make the roast environment more stable… It would be durable – not that the beans are that hard on the surface, but I think it may keep the drum from warping over time – a condition that seems to be a bit of a problem with older roasters—at least ones that are not well taken care of.

The Cons
I’m a bit worried that there needs to be an easy way to clean the surface of the drum, probably when it is still warm to remove all the oils from the surface of the drum. It makes sense to me that if they are not being absorbed into the metal (as they are when you have/season a steel drum) that they will turn rancid, and impart off flavors to the roast.—this may really just need to happen after each roast session though.
It’s a lot more expensive to use SS than mild steel.
It is a bit harder to work with, though not that bad, really.
It’s got such a low coefficient of thermal conductivity. It could easily have a tendency to get hot spots if not very very evenly heated.
—Not sure if this is a + or -, but it should be a good insulator of the heat inside the drum, making the process (slightly) more efficient.
Poor thermal characteristics would probably make the roasting environment less responsive to changes made at the flame.

Thoughts
Would likely be best if it were a very thin layer of SS – likely 1/64″. (looks like it’ll be about 1/16th thick).
In the end – what I am after is a drum that will have an high balance between responsiveness, even heat distribution thoughout the roast chamber, and with the added benefit of a non-reactive / durable surface… That leads to stainless, for the interior of the drum—as thin as I can manage—and a thicker outer layer of a good heat conductor to create even heat distribution. Wow, I just re-invented the All-Clad cookware. (!). Intuitively, I think that the pros outweigh the cons, with the caveat that the SS needs to be as thin as possible to minimize it’s thermal drawbacks.

I know that there are people who have toyed with this before, <link to rg post>. The thing is, that it is not readily available, and as far as I can tell, maybe only Smart Roasters (Kestrel, etc) have been the only ones to work out the specifics of this. I have heard of one SS sample roaster, but can’t find any information on it.

So, this leaves the outer material…
from what I can tell, I have two real choices: Copper or Aluminum. Copper being the obvious better choice – it is a better conductor of heat than aluminum, and undergoes less expansion than aluminum, by about 50%. Which makes it closer to steel (I don’t think that I will be able to get a clad piece long enough to make the drum—though I am considering piecing it together from several clad pots). However, I would rather go to something that could conceivably be manufactured, and that would pretty much exclude using a clad sauce pan… (but never say never).

But you can’t weld it—not that this is really a deterrent though, but I haven’t located copper tubing large enough yet—and I’m a little afraid of what the cost is going to be… We’ll see.

SKILLED FINGERS

This is gonna be personal.First, the explanation. Deft. It is skill with the hands… It is only and nothing more than manual labor. For sure, everyone that touches and somehow affects the quality of coffee is engaged with it in a personal way. That’s it. My part in this is that I am a roaster of coffee—the next to last step in its preparation before consumption. I find coffee to be everything and more than what helps me wake up in the am… it is food. And like every other food, it can be bland and nothing more than sustenance, or it can transcend the ordinary, the merely not-dead and become an integral part of the complexity and richness of life. A symbol… no. More than a symbol. An actual push towards being able to wake up each day and, with bleary eyes and mind, make determined steps toward declaring this is a day I will live the way I intend. Go always toward our dreams.

If our lives have ever come to a point where all we are looking to do is wake up in the morning and get on with our day, all we are doing is being a single tooth in one of an uncountable number of cogs, twittering and twirling through our lives on some other body’s path. But what fun is that? None. I say it is not about treating ourselves to a treat. It is about living every day with the intention that it is a day worth doing something. And if quality is not an integral part of that, then what is the joy of life? Give it your best… Good beer. Good friends. Good whiskey. Good work. Good food. Coffee. Love. Sex. Freedom. Coffee. (Did I actually say coffee twice?)

So anyway. First things first: the roaster.
Simply stated, I want a small device that will allow me to articulate, experiment, and otherwise roast coffee to what I hope will eventually be a very fine degree of precision. One that will evenly distribute the heat through the drum, one that will be also be highly responsive to the application of heat (competing agendas, really). But more than trying to achieve the “perfect” machine (can that exist?) I intend to build one that will allow me to alter it in order to experiment—change drum dimensions, change drum materials, change drum design and know how each shift in materials, in dimensions, in design, affects how the roast progresses.

I have no illusions that this roaster will be what make good coffee. I named this experiment Deft, afterall. I wrapped it’s name around skilled fingers, around the notion of manual labor. What moves the fingers? The soul. Passion drives the soul. And without someone, someone with vision seeing where to take the coffee, then it is simply lost.

So anyway, back to the device itself. Here is my checklist:

Roast 0.25 – 1.25 lb (green) coffee, continuously
Roast so evenly. Very evenly.
Infinitely adjustable flame, such that the roast can extend between absurd extremes (4min roast to 25+min roast times- this is about being able to stretch or compress sections of the roast, not getting a 30 min roast.)
Able to replace drum with other composition, other dimensions
Able to adjust drum rotation speeds
Able to easily (relatively) change out flame design (design of the flame delivery)

THE DRUM SHOULD:

Distribute the heat. Evenly.
Allow the roast environment to be highly responsive
Be non-reactive to the coffee (wrt to the flavor) – traditionally, drums have been made of mild carbon steel, but Stainless Steel is intriguing to me…

1) Steel (mild, carbon)
2) 317 Stainless Steel/Copper
3) 317 SS/Aluminum
4) 317 SS/Copper/Aluminum
5) 317 SS/Mild Steel